Raspberry Brilliant - large-fruited remontant, features
Raspberry is a traditional culture on garden plots that is relatively easy to grow, and with proper care, it can bear fruit long enough - both during the season and throughout the life of a raspberry. The article will tell you about the cultivar of Brilliantantovaya raspberry, its characteristics and agricultural techniques of cultivation from planting to harvesting.
Large-fruited repairing raspberry Diamond
The cultivation of the variety belongs to domestic breeders - it is patented and included in the State Register of the Russian Federation approved for cultivation of varieties in 2006. The admission region is Central. Authors - Kazakov I.V., Kulagina V.L., Evdokimenko S.N., Nam I.Ya. This is a large-fruited remont raspberry of universal direction for garden cultivation.
Did you know? In some types of Christian art, raspberries are a symbol of kindness, and in Hellenistic culture it was associated with fertility.
It is characterized by medium resistance to drought, but tolerates heat, winter-hardy (up to -24 ° C). Raspberry Brilliant - an early ripe variety, which is able in the tolerance regions to provide ripening up to 90% of the formed crop. The recommended number of plants for a family is 4-5 bushes per person for individual use.
Appearance of the bush, characteristics of berries, ripening dates, yield
The bush is low (1.2–1.5 m), of medium strength and branching. It does not need much support and remains tilted under the weight of the crop without lying on the ground. The repairing variety has less shoot formation - 5–6 substitution shoots per season, in wet periods there may be more. The shoots are biennial woody, erect, brown. Young stems of the first year are green and soft at first, reddish by the end of the season.
Shoots weakly lowered with a strong natural wax coating. The same plaque is on the late fruit bearing branches. The stems have soft and straight thorns that are located at the base. There are few of them, which facilitates the collection of berries without the risk of injury. A leaf along the edges with sharp teeth, green with a bluish tint, slightly wrinkled and twisted. Raspberry blooms with small white flowers with five petals, which are surrounded by green sepals.
After pollination of the flower, a berry is formed, consisting of many middle drupes, which, with the help of tiny hairs, are combined into the familiar raspberry fruit. The variety is large-fruited. Berries without aroma, red-pink, elongated-conical with intense flickering brilliant brilliance, which provided raspberries with its name. The pulp is juicy and tender, the taste of sweetness (5.5%) and acid (1.2%) balanced (taste rating 4 points).The composition is 20.5% vitamin C. The weight of the berries is 4–5 g, the declared yield by the originators is 76.1 c / ha, or 2–4 kg (4–8 l) from each bush according to gardeners. Ripens in the middle of summer and bears fruit until late autumn. For the most part, gardeners who grow Brilliant raspberry respond positively and appreciate the variety for its ease of care, the quality of the berries and their ability to store and transport.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
- Benefits of the raspberry harvest in the fall:
- convenient ripening time and extended fruiting;
- little affected by pests and does not require chemical treatments;
- ease of care compared to summer varieties (no need to take care of shelter for the winter and bend down shoots);
- resistance to climatic influences (to heat and cold);
- quality and consumer value of berries.
- Disadvantages of culture:
- dependence on the sunny location of the beds;
- the need for mulching to suppress weed growth;
- the use of garters to provide light inside the bush;
- the introduction of a large number of fertilizers due to the increased growth of ovaries and prolonged fruiting.
Features of agricultural technology
Caring for remont raspberries, although it has its own peculiarities, is usually no more difficult than for ordinary varieties.
The plant grows well on moisture-retaining, fertile, slightly acidic soils with a pH of 6–7, which are well-drained and do not contain weeds. Exclude areas with fine-grained chalky soil. She does not like wetlands, so do not plant raspberries in the lowlands where water accumulates. Moisture is necessary for raspberries, but moist and heavy soils or excessive irrigation can cause root rot, which is one of the most serious crop problems.For best results, choose a place that is constantly lit by the sun. The beds are arranged from north to south so that the bushes do not obscure each other, and the soil warms up well. In the shade of the repairing varieties, the fruiting zone decreases, the ripening of the berries is delayed, and the autumn harvest is poorly formed. Flowers are pollinated by insects, so avoid very windy areas. In addition, branches laden with the crop may break in the wind.
Landing and care
The location of the raspberry should be changed every 7-10 years to avoid the accumulation of pests and viruses in the soil. When planting, make sure that the bushes are located at a sufficient distance from each other to ensure good air circulation and warming by the sun - 60–70 cm in a row and 1.5–2 m between rows. It is better to plant raspberries in the spring, as soon as the soil dries out a little and the threat of frost passes, or in the middle of autumn. Planting should be well watered, especially in dry periods with little or no rainfall.
It is necessary that the moisture is supplied to the plants in sufficient quantity and regularly, the soil should be moist at a depth of 20-30 cm. This is especially important during flowering and fruiting. Plants that suffer from drought will produce small berries. In areas with hard water, try to use collected rainwater. Drip irrigation is one of the best and most economical methods of watering raspberries, because it provides uniform moisture and does not erode the upper layers of the soil.Drip irrigation of raspberries. The soil with abundant and prolonged fruiting is depleted, and raspberries are biologically trying to find more fertile soils, sprouting with new branches. To replenish these nutrients, it is advisable to mulch the beds annually with organic mulch, such as well-rotted compost. Leaves, shredded bark, wood shavings, or well-rotted sawdust will help improve soil conditions, but they will not be able to provide the same amount of nutrients as compost.
Mulching helps retain moisture and reduces the need for weeding, inhibiting the growth of weeds that compete with raspberries for nutrients and moisture. Raspberry roots are located close to the surface (25–35 cm) and deep loosening can easily damage them. Between the rows it is good to plant grass with a slowly growing turf. This will also facilitate the fight against weeds and young shoots.
It is necessary to control the number of root sprouts and branches - leave only 6-8 shoots on one root and about 10 bushes on 1 running meter - the culture does not tolerate thickening, and the shoot takes more than 50% of all nutrients. When thinning, use a knife or a shovel to dig up the soil under the root shoots to a depth of 6-8 cm and remove them. Such seedlings can be used on new plantings or shared with neighbors. Without control by the gardener over the growth of raspberries, it will turn into wild impenetrable thickets, the culture will become an invasive species, and weak and painful plants will be called degenerate.But even such areas can be put in order and get good plants with large fruits.It is necessary to re-mark the rows along the twine, drive the pegs through 70 cm. Destroy all unnecessary, and provide the left bushes with full care. On twine empty sections constantly need to plant new seedlings, and uproot young growth. Raspberries require a lot of nutrients, as their rapid growth and long fruiting greatly depletes the soil.
Important! Fertilize at a distance of 7-10 cm from the base of the bush - with direct contact, the roots can get a chemical burn.
Fertilizer application for remont raspberries:
- First time plants are fertilized during the planting period of new seedlings - a mixture is introduced into the planting trenches: 3 buckets of humus, 250 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate; 3 kg of compost and humus, 250 g of ash, 50 g of superphosphate and urea. This supply of nutrients is enough for the entire growing season.
- In early spring in the phase of kidney swelling, the first top dressing with nitrogen-containing substances is done (humus-rape, bird droppings, urea, ammonia, potassium or calcium nitrate). They provide fast growth and increase in yield. The following two top dressings (second and third) are done at intervals of 2 weeks from the first, paying particular attention to weakened plants. Organic and mineral mixtures, which are especially useful for mature raspberry over 4-5 years old, have proven themselves well.
- After flowering It is recommended to feed the repairing grade with a nitrofoam to increase the formation of ovaries.
- Fall pruning stalks under the root of the fertilizer do not make. And if the annual shoots are left for fruiting in the next season, then superphosphate and calcium sulfate (10 g for each bush) are added, the soil is mulched with humus or compost and covered with a thick layer of nettle. Before winter, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not applied, so as not to cause the shoots to grow again and thereby weaken the root system.
Pest and Disease Control
Inspect the bushes from time to time to detect pests and signs of disease in time. This will allow us to take timely measures and choose methods for solving the problem. The early detection of diseases and the eradication of pests is important for maintaining plant health. Since the berries are consumed fresh, the raspberry should be treated with chemicals in early spring before flowering, so as not to harm pollinating insects, and after the last harvest.
Repairing varieties are resistant to defeat by raspberry beetle and weevil, because the raspberry growing season, namely flowering, and the breeding season of pests do not coincide. But to control other pests, preventive treatment of the bushes is carried out after the last harvest of berries with broad-spectrum insecticides (Actellik, Karbofos, Fufanon, Iskra-M, Inta-Vir). The spread of fungal infections often takes place in humid conditions - excessive watering, heavy rains, thickened plantings.To prevent pathogenic lesions, plantings are cleaned of young growth during the summer, from fallen leaves and cut branches, they are treated with Bordeaux liquid (1-3%) or copper chloride (3%), the soil under bushes and row-spacings with copper sulfate and colloidal sulfur. In the fight against gray rot, the rows are mulched with pine needles and sprinkled with wood ash. It is necessary to collect ripe berries in time so that the spores of the fungus do not penetrate the damaged and overripe fruits.
Plants affected by mosaics, infectious chlorosis, curly, bush dwarfism are not subject to treatment. They are completely destroyed - they are uprooted and burned. The tool with which they worked among the infected bushes must be disinfected. Raspberries should not be planted where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or onions were previously grown without preliminary cultivation and fumigation of the soil. These crops can be carriers of fungal diseases whose spores remain in the soil for many years and can infect raspberries.
Video: raspberry viral mosaic
While summer varieties of raspberries are tall and require a strong system of poles and several tiers of wires for fruiting, the repair raspberry Diamond has a low bush and is resistant to wind, that is, largely self-sustaining. One wire between the posts is enough so that the stems do not bend to the ground, which will ensure air circulation inside the branches and the sun will illuminate.
It is allowed to plant raspberries on the sunny side along fences and garden structures that will serve the bushes as natural support. In small areas, you can plant 2-3 raspberry bushes around a pillar dug in the ground and tie stems to it as it grows. When raspberries are grown in rows with the installation of supporting structures and garter branches, productivity increases 6–8 times with an increase in the size and sweetness of berries.
Raspberry rhizome lives for 10-15 years, but raspberry bush itself does not degenerate, since the bush constantly gives rise to substitution shoots growing from the root, and root processes that are first associated with the mother bush, and then root themselves and begin to live their own lives. Raspberry Brilliant gives few shoots separately from the bush, but every year there are more and more shoots in the bush. This makes it possible to vegetatively propagate raspberries with root shoots, preserving all the properties of the mother plant.
It is necessary to carefully, trying not to damage the maternal root, dig a shoot with part of the roots (up to 15 cm) and transplant to a new place. In the presence of root shoots, they are also dug up and transplanted to a depth of 10-15 cm. According to the advice of gardeners growing Diamond Raspberries, with intensive autumn water-loading irrigation, the number of root shoots will be greater. You can plant any rooted shoots. Raspberry seedlings must have a part of the shoot that grew underground.
Important!. When separating root shoots of substitution, do not remove more than a third of the raspberry roots. This is harmful to the mother plant and will reduce the supply of its strength and energy.
The thickness of the root does not always indicate the quality of subsequent growth - everything is decided by the proper care of the plants. Raspberries, unlike other fruit crops, are not propagated by cuttings (parts of stems). There is still a way to root the tops of the stems during the growing season, but it is laborious and, according to gardeners, ineffective. Propagation of raspberries by seeds is also not effective, since the process is long and laborious, and it is probably not possible to preserve the properties of the parent plant.
Video: raspberry propagation by root cuttings
Pruning and wintering
Each gardener must choose the method of pruning Diamond raspberries, depending on the desire to get one (on the shoots of the current season) or two (on last year and new shoots) crops per season. But double fruiting weakens the plant and, as a rule, it is not possible to obtain both full-fledged crops. Therefore, it is recommended to cultivate remont raspberries in the Central regions and in the suburbs in an annual culture, and plant varieties of summer or autumn raspberries together.
Pinching the tops of the stems of remont raspberries delays fruiting for about 3 weeks and stimulates the development of lateral branches, which allows prolonging ripening in warm climatic zones. But in a cool climate, in order to accelerate the harvest, it is better to leave the end buds intact, otherwise the berries will go under the snow unripe. Pruning remont raspberries in late autumn involves removing all stems at the ground level after harvest. The procedure must be carried out after frost, when the leaves are frostbitten.Pruning should not be done before, because due to leaves and stems, the root system is nourished and developed after the end of the growing season.This cutting of bushes solves the problem of sheltering plantings for the winter to protect from frost, facilitates care and allows you to get rid of numerous pests and viruses wintering on old stems, without the use of chemicals - the berries will be environmentally friendly. Cropped stems and shoots must be burned.
Young plantings of remont raspberries are not cut completely under the root, they leave 30 cm of shoot so that the plants can use all the nutrients from the stem and leaves to strengthen the root system. When new spring shoots appear, these old stems are cut. They dig up the soil in raspberries, carry out autumn water-charging irrigation to ensure safe wintering and mulch planting with a thick layer (20–25 cm) of straw, peat, humus or shredded foliage.
After snowfalls, an additional layer of snow is thrown onto the site. In spring, the mulch needs to be thrown back so that the young shoots have the opportunity to break through, and the roots do not rot.
Harvesting and transportation
In some cases, young seedlings of remont raspberries can produce several berries in the first fall. But the main crop will begin to ripen for next season in mid-summer. Berries are harvested in 2-3 days. It is better to do this on a sunny day, when they dry out from dew, or in the evening. Berries harvested through dew or rain are poorly preserved. Do not push too hard on the berries when harvesting - the ripe berry easily separates from the inner core. Gather raspberries in small containers, jars or baskets in order not to crush the berries. If possible, do not wash berries after picking, unless you intend to eat them immediately.
Did you know? In the middle of the last century, Scotland was called raspberry paradise, and raspberries were delivered to London on the “Raspberry Special” steam locomotive.
They become soft, secrete juice and begin to mold. Try to remove visible dirt, leaves, earth, but keep dry. Unwashed raspberries can be stored in the refrigerator for about 3-5 days. If the berries need to be processed, then it is advisable to do this immediately after collection. The berries withstand frost well and are stored in this condition for 10-12 months, that is, until the new crop. Thanks to the dense pulp, the raspberry brilliant well tolerates transportation.Harvest, which is intended for transportation, must first be cooled. Today there are many varieties of raspberries, and each of them is unique. Check with the nurseries what raspberry varieties are best for your region, adhere to the rules of agricultural technology, and even in the first year of planting, the repair raspberry variety Brilliantovaya will make it possible to harvest the first crop in autumn. And for the second season, the bushes will please you with berries from July to October, and sometimes longer - until the first frost.
My taste was a little sweet, no, and I wouldn’t say that it smelled very strong. The smell was raspberry, but faint. It was cooked in my heat, and it multiplies tightly. For 2 years, she did not give root offspring. In my conditions, I didn’t like it. Beautiful is a sight. Voluntarily ordered a long life in the summer heat of 2011.
I "sentenced" my Diamond, as if a berry were beautiful. Somehow, at my count, she has more minuses than pluses! Berry, due to loose bruises, had to be collected by cutting with scissors along with the peduncle. But most of all, it infuriates that it is impossible to really tie up the bush. The bushes are low, sprawling, branched like currants, in all directions, can not be caught. In short, from the best, we choose the best. Although the variety, in my opinion, is not in last place.